Clarifications on boost upgrades por favor!

[CROM]

Ok, so as of right now, I am going to ask about the 3 "most popular" ways of increasing boost on our cars(ZIP you will DIE!!! ), I kid because I love

Anyhoo

1). Getting a good ol' pulley to replace the supercharger pully, 3.8" etc...

Pros: Boost increase
Cons: Pain in the ass to do if you dont have a garage and many tools handy(I am at school right now, and cant just mosey on home for the weekend to do this).

2). The alternator stepper pulley from the infamous T.O.O

Pros: Boost increase, ?
Cons: I dont know, but to me, this seems like more work than replacing the supercharger pulley, you have to do all the same stuff, and pull off the damned alternator.

3). CRV Crank pulley replacement, or custom crank pulley replacement.

Pros: Boost increase, less time consuming than the two fore mentioned options...??

Cons: Causes excess drag on the alternator which can lead to premature failure of the alternator/ie. smoke the sucker.(According to TOO), but, isnt this the case for the other 2 options as well, everything is spinning faster!!!

Ok, this is very vague, but I want you guys to fill in the gaps and make comments on each option.

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JR Charger 6psi(9 going on in a week), 550cc Injectors(going on in a week), PMS(in a week), Clutchmasters/ACT Stage III, Greddy SP Exhaust, Test Pipe, Walbro High Pressure(in a week) Yok A032's,B&M Shortshifter,AEM CAI

[Holden]

In addition to what you said:

#1
Pro: Less spinning mass.
Con: Less belt contact the smaller you go. 3.8" appears fine, but some people complain of slippage problems with 3.6" and smaller.

#2
Pro: Increased belt contact area.
Con: I'm not sure this is as difficult as you think. I'm pretty sure you can pull the alternator out from below. Rafe?

#3
Pro: 1:20 swap time last time I did it. That is quick enough to put it on for special occasions and remove it when not needed (winter).
Con: More spinning mass. More parasitic drag from alternator. I wouldn't worry much about the alternator bearings failing unless you plan on spending a lot of time above 6K rpm.

My .02

Greg

[CROM]

Thanks Greg..

Adding the CRV crank pulley can not add that much weight. I have no clue as to the weight difference, what did you find it to be?

[FoxRocket]

Hmm...I have a boosted GSR. I have a CRV. What a wacky little trade that would be.

Sean

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- Atomic 'Teg -
99 GS-R, JRSC @ 6 PSI and a filter on a stick.

[rjaffey]

The alternator can be removed from below the car. It's definitely less work than removing the blower. Don't forget that the ENDYN pulley has a really tough high friction coating on it, so belt slipage will not be a problem.

[CROM]

So Raffe, the alternator can me removed from the bottom, without removal of the charger, could you perhaps email me a somewhat detailed list of what the install involves, I would really appreciate it.....thanks in advance!

[Holden]

I forgot to weigh them when I had both of them off the engine, but here are some observations. The CRV pulley feels heavier in your hands.

- The alt. and ac pulleys are both 1/2" larger in diameter on the CRV.
- The ps pulley on the CRV is slightly smaller and lighter.

Here's the killer for weight though:

- The hex socket on the CRV starts at the closest edge (looking at it as it goes on the engine) of the ac pulley. On the GSR, the socket doesn't begin until the closest edge of the alt. pulley.

In other words, the GSR pulley has a lot less metal in the center part. It is much more "hollow", so to speak.

I'll try to weigh them in September when I put it on for a night at the dragstrip.

Greg

[BennyH]

" but, isnt this the case for the other 2 options as well, everything is spinning faster!!!"
I just want to clarify the above comments.
Only with the option 3(CRV Crank Pulley will cause everything to go faster.
The other two application will only make the supercharger spin faster where the rest of the components(AC compressor, Alternator) will spin at the same speed.
Ben

[Holden]

Funny thought:

I wonder how many CRV owners know they could pick up some HP from putting on a GSR pulley?

Sort of like a "factory" underdrive pulley! With a damper and all!

Greg

[rjaffey]

I'll post it here in case anyone else is interested.

It *may* be possible to swap pulleys without taking the alternator all the way off the car if you have an impact gun handy. However, I'm unsure as to whether there's enough room. In any event, here's an outline of the procedure if it's possible:

-Remove blower belt.
-Remove Alternator belt.
-Remove bolt connecting alternator to upper tensioner assembly. (A b*tch!)
-Remove long pivot bolt on the bottom of the alternator.
-Reorient alternator so you can access the nose (and pulley) from below.
-Use an impact gun to remove the nut holding on the JR pulley.
-Swap pulleys.
-Complete the precedure by following the steps in reverse.

Unfortunately I don't have an impact gun in my garage so I had to completely remove the alternator. Here's an outline of the procedure:

-Remove blower belt.
-Remove Alternator belt.
-Remove bolt connecting alternator to upper tensioner assembly. (A b*tch!)
-Take off the driver's side wheel.
-Remove the center nut holding the axle to the driver's side hub.
-Remove the driver's side damper fork.
-Separate the lower ball joint on the driver's side from the lower control arm.
-Remove the driver's side outer axle shaft.
-Remove the inner axle shaft.
-Remove long pivot bolt on the bottom of the alternator.
-Remove the lower alternator bracket.
-Remove the alternator.
-Swap pulleys.
-Follow the steps in reverse.

It sounds like a lot, but it doesn't take that long.